Tubeless tire technology has finally caught up with the demands of adventure cyclists. After years of dealing with sealant messes, stubborn beads, and difficult setups, the latest generation of tubeless-ready tires makes conversion almost foolproof.
I resisted going tubeless for years. The early systems were finicky, messy, and unreliable. But after switching my gravel bike three seasons ago, I’ve become a convert. Here’s what changed my mind—and what you need to know before making the switch.
Why Tubeless Makes Sense for Adventure Cycling
Puncture Resistance
This tops the list. Thorns, glass, and small sharp rocks that would sideline a tubed tire get sealed instantly by the sealant swirling inside.
On a recent 400-mile gravel route through Kansas, I counted zero flats despite riding through fields of goathead thorns. With tubes, I would have stopped at least a dozen times. The sealant plugs small holes before you even notice them.
Lower Pressures, Better Comfort
Without tubes, there’s no risk of pinch flats when you hit rocks or roots. This means you can run significantly lower pressures—35-40 PSI instead of 50-60 PSI on a typical 40mm tire.
Lower pressure transforms rough gravel roads into comfortable cruising. The tire conforms to obstacles instead of bouncing off them. Your hands and back will thank you after eight hours in the saddle.
Better Traction
Lower pressure also means more tire contact with the ground. On loose gravel, sand, and wet surfaces, this extra grip is noticeable. Climbing traction improves, and descending feels more secure.
What Made Tubeless Finally Work
The key advancement is better bead design. Modern adventure tires like the Schwalbe G-One, Panaracer GravelKing, and WTB Riddler now seat reliably with a standard floor pump. No compressor needed.
Tubeless-ready rims have also improved. The hookless designs from major manufacturers create an airtight seal more consistently than older rim profiles.
The Complete Setup Process
Budget 30 minutes for your first conversion. Here’s what you need and how to do it.
Required Components
- Tubeless-ready rims and tires — Look for “TLR” or “tubeless-ready” labels. Non-tubeless tires can work but are much harder to seal.
- Tubeless valve stems — Match your rim’s valve hole size (usually Presta).
- Tubeless rim tape — This seals the spoke holes. Width should match your rim’s internal width.
- Sealant — Stan’s, Orange Seal, and Muc-Off are popular choices. Budget 60-90ml per tire.
Step-by-Step Installation
1. Remove old tape. Clean the rim bed with isopropyl alcohol. Any debris or old adhesive will prevent a good seal.
2. Apply tubeless tape. Start opposite the valve hole. Pull the tape tight as you wrap, overlapping the starting point by a few inches. Press firmly to eliminate air bubbles.
3. Install valve stem. Poke through the tape with an awl or sharp tool. Thread the valve from inside the rim and tighten the locknut.
4. Mount the tire. Seat one bead, then the other. Make sure both beads are in the rim’s center channel—this gives you slack to work with.
5. Inflate without sealant first. The beads should pop into place with a floor pump. Listen for the distinctive “ping” sound as each bead seats. If it won’t inflate, try removing the valve core for more airflow.
6. Add sealant. Deflate the tire, break one bead, and pour in sealant. Or inject it through the valve stem using a syringe. Reinstall the valve core and reinflate.
7. Shake and spin. Rotate the wheel horizontally and vertically to coat the entire inside of the tire with sealant.
The Professional Option
Most bike shops charge around $40 per wheel for tubeless conversion. Worth considering if you’re not comfortable with the process or don’t have the tools.
Maintenance: The Critical Details
Sealant Refresh
Add sealant every 2-3 months. It dries out, especially in hot weather. I learned this the hard way 200 miles from the nearest town when a puncture wouldn’t seal because my sealant had turned to boogers.
Shake your wheels periodically—if you don’t hear liquid sloshing, add more sealant immediately.
Carrying Backup
Tubeless isn’t completely flat-proof. Large cuts or sidewall tears can overwhelm the sealant. Always carry:
- A spare tube (yes, really)
- Tire plugs for larger punctures
- A small bottle of backup sealant
- A mini pump or CO2
Weight and Performance
The weight savings aren’t dramatic—maybe 100 grams per wheel once you account for sealant. But the ride quality improvement makes tubeless worthwhile for any serious adventure cyclist.
Your tires last longer too. Lower pressures mean less casing stress, and the sealant coating protects against slow leaks from aging rubber.
Three seasons in, I can’t imagine going back to tubes. The setup takes some learning, but the on-trail benefits are undeniable.
